Bespoke & Made-To-Measure

Lisa O’Shaughnessy | Men’s Personal Stylist | Tailoring Consultant 

When I talk about my work as a stylist, people are often surprised to learn that my client base is almost evenly split—50% male and 50% female.

What I particularly enjoy about working with male clients is their interest in developing a refined sartorial style. Many are keen to incorporate bespoke or made-to-measure tailoring into their wardrobes. With the wealth of options available, from Savile Row in London to other tailoring hubs, the choices can feel overwhelming, leaving clients unsure where to begin.

This is where my background as a fashion designer proves invaluable. I start by carefully matching the right tailor to the client’s personality and budget, both of which are crucial considerations. Once we’ve identified the perfect tailor, I take the time to schedule a pre-appointment to handpick fabrics and linings from an extensive fabric library and finalise design details. By the time my client arrives for his fitting, everything is meticulously prepared, ensuring a seamless and stress-free experience.

Bespoke suit jacket in the process of being made.

Bespoke suit jacket in the process of being made.

 For those of you thinking about visiting a tailor, below outlines 3 questions that I am often asked:

What Is A Bespoke Suit?

A bespoke suit is defined as a suit that is cut and made by hand. Hand cutting means that an individual paper pattern - see photo - is made specifically only for that customer and is then refined over 3-4 fittings, a couple of weeks apart. Thus enabling a superior fit that cannot be achieved by anything off-the-peg or made-to-measure. 

Hand making/stitching also has both functional and aesthetic benefits. Functionally, it enables the tailor to shape and structure the jacket and trousers around the customer’s body shape. Knowing exactly to the millimetre where to add pockets, the width of the lapel and the break point of the jacket (first button position). Aesthetically, the delicacy of the stitching and detailing subtly elevates it above anything ready made. It is to put it simply the best suit money can buy you.

Richard James Savile Row

Richard James Savile Row

How Is A Made-To-Measure Suit Different From Bespoke?

Unlike the bespoke suit the made-to-measure suit doesn’t come with a hefty price tag! Made-to-measure is the middle ground between bespoke and off-the-peg. The suit would be cut, usually by machine, from an existing pattern, and adjusted according to the customer's measurements.With off the peg styles, you would wear the suit as it comes, possibly only altering the leg or sleeve length. At the other end of the scale, the bespoke suit is made for an individual entirely from scratch – every aspect is chosen by the customer and made explicitly for him. 

The majority of the suit will machine finished such as the seams, but many tailors add in extra hand finished details like buttonholes or hand stitching at the lapels. The fit will also be far superior to ready-to-wear and a degree of customisation (depending on the establishment) will be allowed.

In short, made-to-measure offers the quickest and most efficient way to have a beautifully fitting suit made to your own specifications.  This is a route I often suggest for Grooms and their Groomsmen, as well fitting wedding suits make better photos and a happy wife!

Retailer Reiss offer a made to measure service.

Retailer Reiss offer a made to measure service.

Beggars Run: 33a Charlotte Road, London, EC2A 3PB

Beggars Run: 33a Charlotte Road, London, EC2A 3PB

How Can I Incorporate Tailoring Into ‘Business/smart Casual’?

With some companies now adopting a ‘business casual’dress code and suits are only worn on intermittent occasions for formal meetings, is there still a place for tailoring? In short the answer is an overwhelming yes! Tailored separates is a stylish and economical answer to this question. No longer having to keep 2 piece suits for work or weddings and wearing an obvious suit jacket with jeans doesn’t quite hit the spot. Tailored bespoke separates are less expensive than a full suit and can be worn on both formal and casual occasions.

Menswear blogger Sergio Ines of whatmyboyfriendwore.com in business casual - just add socks!

Menswear blogger Sergio Ines of whatmyboyfriendwore.com in business casual - just add socks!

The Cad & The Dandy: Savile Row. Business Casual add dark blue trousers.

The Cad & The Dandy: Savile Row. Business Casual add dark blue trousers.

Business Casual offers the perfect opportunity to move beyond the standard suit and infuse your work attire with style and personality. A tailored blazer in a subtle Prince of Wales check, herringbone, or windowpane pattern is an excellent way to elevate your office wardrobe. However, when pairing it with trousers, opt for plain, solid-colored fabrics to balance the look. To pull off a cohesive separates outfit, ensure all elements feature mutually complementary tones for a polished and professional finish.

Personal Styling Men

All tailoring appointments take place in London, as this is where I am based. Whilst I am not affiliated with any tailors, I am able to access discounts for customers where possible. 

If you would like to find out more about booking a tailoring appointment, or personal styling for men please do get in touch.

Thank you for reading.

Lisa

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